Aberdyfi

Aberdyfi (previously Aberdovey) is a pretty little harbour village resting peacefully below hills on the northern side of the estuary of the River Dyfi. Its strategic location means it was once an important meeting place for princes from the north and south of Wales. Later, it grew into a locally important port and, although the trading boats are no more, you can still see plenty of boating activity on the water here. Combined with its beautiful sandy beach, it is easy to see why the village has long been a magnet for tourists. With its fishing boats, colourful houses and lobster pots there is a sudden sense of having arrived in Cornwall when you enter the place from the long stretch of golden sands that surrounds it.

There is an old Welsh legend that there was once a wealthy kingdom here called Cantre’r Gwaelod which flooded, losing the kingdom to the sea forever. It is possible there is some truth in the legend - low tide sometimes reveals the remains of ancient, submerged forests and the legend may refer to the flooding of land which happened at the end of the last ice age.

It is said that bells of the lost kingdom can sometimes be heard ringing below the waters of Cardigan Bay and the tale is immortalised in the famous Welsh folk song, ‘The Bells of Aberdovey’. A tide bell hung under the pier at Aberdyfi is a reminder of the legend – you can view the bell from above through a grille in the jetty floor.

The village is pleasant spot, sitting below low mountainsides strung out along the waterfront and staring out over the estuary to Ceredigion only a mile or so as the crow flies but over 2 days walk away on the coast path. There are a good number of basic shops, plenty of waterside pubs along with a handful of cafes and bistros mainly strung around its little harbour and slipway.

It’s a peaceful overnight stop and one linked to the rest of the route by the little railway which runs through the tide below the hills if you need to start of finish here.