SWCP Section 2, Westward Ho! to Padstow

Leaving the flatlands of north Devon dunes near Westward Ho!, the path along the Clovelly Ridge begins with zig-zag climbs through gorse, following the route of a former railway. The trail descends to Babbacombe Mouth beach before climbing Westacott Cliff through coastal woodlands. After passing Bronze Age earthworks at Peppercombe Castle and descending through Sloo Woods, the path reaches the isolated hamlet of Bucks Mills with its lime kilns. The walk continues through wild woodland to 'The Hobby Drive', a scenic carriageway offering views of Clovelly harbour. A gentle descent leads to the heights above the picturesque fishing hamlet of Clovelly.

Leaving Clovelly, the path re-enters ancient woodland before reaching the desolate headland around Hartland. After a steep climb from Clovelly, the trail passes below Clovelly Court and through more woodland, revealing unusual shelters like the Angels Wings memorial. Walkers can choose between a standard path to Mouth Mill beach or an adventurous route with a rock tunnel and a breathtaking viewpoint over 400ft high. Both routes lead to Mouth Mill, featuring ruined lime kilns and Blackchurch Rock. The dramatic walk continues to imposing Hartland Point, passing Windbury Waterfall and an Iron Age castle before reaching the isolated Hartland Lighthouse. The viewpoint offers sights of seals, Lundy Island, and the wreck of the Johanna. The rugged coastline features bizarre rock formations and hidden valleys crossed by stone bridges, including Blegburry Water where a stream disappears into the beach. The path briefly passes Hartland Abbey before the final stretch to Hartland Quay.

Leaving the exposed Hartland Quay, the challenging walk traverses isolated combes and cliff tops, passing waterfalls at Spekes Mill and the Iron Age ramparts of Embury Beacon before crossing into Cornwall at Marsland Mouth nature reserve and past the Litter Mouth waterfall. The day concludes with the striking Devil's Hole and a climb up Henna Cliff, leading inland to the atmospheric hamlet of Morwenstow, known for Parson Hawker and the Morwenstow Wreckers. The next section enters shipwreck country, passing Hawker's Driftwood Hut, with towering cliff climbs and cove descents offering views and potential peregrine falcon sightings. The path briefly encounters the modern world at GCHQ's satellite dishes at Cleave Camp before descending to the rocky pools of Duckpool. The afternoon offers a less strenuous walk behind a long stretch of sandy beaches leading to the welcoming coastal town of Bude.

Leaving Bude via its sea lock, the morning offers a relaxed walk past Compass Point with views towards Lundy Island, Tintagel, and Dartmoor. The path continues along Widemouth Bay's golden sands, linked to the legend of Wrecker Featherstone. The walking then becomes more demanding, reaching Millock with its unique zigzag rock formations. Up on The Dizzard, a prehistoric dwarf oak forest shaped by Atlantic storms is found. The day concludes by traversing Butterfly Valley and passing hidden smugglers' coves and waterfalls before a steep descent to the welcoming hamlet of Crackington Haven, located right on the beach.

The day begins with an ascent of the Cambeak promontory, passing the Northern Door sea arch at Strangles Beach before climbing to High Cliff, the highest point on the South West Coast Path. Listen for seals near Seals Hole and glimpse the Pentargon waterfall cascading into the sea before descending to Boscastle harbour. Continuing into King Arthur's country, the exhilarating trail traverses precipitous headlands past Ladies Window and through Rocky Valley, featuring ancient labyrinth carvings. Beyond Elephant Rock, the imposing ruins of Tintagel Castle come into view. Descend to the beach and Merlin's Cave before climbing to Tintagel Village for an overnight stop.

Today's challenging walk into a more recent industrial past involves over seven steep cliff-top rises and valley descents before reaching Port Isaac. The path passes the 80ft Lanterdan Quarry, where slate was once extracted by men lowered on ropes, and 'Donkeys Hole', the end of a disused tunnel where blindfolded donkeys hauled slate from the beach below. In contrast, the idyllic Trebarwith Strand offers refreshment at the Port William Inn. The afternoon climb up 'The Mountain', a habitat for birds of prey, leads through former silver and gold prospecting country to Port Gaverne harbour with its historic fish cellars. The reward for the tough day's walking is the charming village of Port Isaac, nestled into the cliffs with its whitewashed cottages.

Leaving Port Isaac, the path quickly reaches the abandoned 1900s settlement of Port Quinn, with derelict cottages hinting at its mysterious demise, possibly due to declining fish stocks. The remote Lundy Hole, a collapsed sea cave with local legends of the devil, follows. Passing the gothic folly at Doyden Point, the trail arrives at Pentire Point, offering what are considered the best views on the entire South West Coast Path, overlooking the Camel Estuary and the Mouls rocks. The twin peaks of the Rumps, an Iron Age fort, provide opportunities for seal and puffin sightings. Entering the Camel Estuary, the route passes the Brea Hill Bronze Age Barrow and St Endoc church, the unique burial place of John Betjeman. The coastal walk concludes with a 600-year-old ferry crossing to Padstow over the Doom Bar, a sandbank with a legendary curse and a history of shipwrecks. Arriving in the bustling town of Padstow, there are ample opportunities to celebrate the end of the journey.