One of the prettiest overnight spots on the Ceredigion Coast Path, the tiny hamlet of Llangrannog, squeezed into a deep cleft in the cliffs, is a fabulous overnight stop (although accommodation here is limited).
The evocative life-sized statue of St Carannog greets you as you arrive. One of the grandsons of Ceredig, after whom Ceredigion is named, Carannog rejected the life of a prince in favour of life as a pilgrim and missionary, living for a while in a caves on the beach near here. He founded his first church in a clearing in the woods and gave Llanrannog its name (Llan means ‘church’ in Welsh).
The village is divided into two parts, linked by a narrow road. The older upper part, where you’ll find the church and the impressive Y Gerwn waterfall, and the lower part adjacent to the beach. Down on the beach you’ll find several caves which, as well as housing pilgrims and hermits, were used for holding contraband before it was distributed to the inland farms under the cover of night.
Separating Llangrannog Beach from Cilborth Beach is the large rock stack known as Carreg Bica or Devil’s Tooth. According to legend, the giant Bica was suffering from toothache and spat the tooth out. In another version, Bica lost his tooth trying to eat berries growing in the local rock.
For the modern-day pilgrim, there is a pleasant selection of pubs and cafes just behind the beach – it’s the sort of place that is a joy to overnight in where you arrive as the day visitors leave and you can head out before you eat to enjoy the rocky cove and beach in peace.